ALEKSANDR MANAMIS BY JADE
Aleksandr Manamis is a mysterious enigma, a construct of the imagination of a collaborative group and not a sole individual. Manamis itself is the brand's first and boldest design, a name we recognise by its romantic, dramatic signature across the collection. On our latest buying trip, we asked Erik, the brands devoted ambassador, who the designer is, and he answered mischievously, 'It's a secret'.
Self indulgent? Yes. The designs are arguably over-the-top, verging on overly expensive and too ‘costume’ for the everyday. But to allow the designer full creative control, where the focus is on luxury and detail and where affordability is unquestioned, is testament to the creative imagination at its heart. Manamis gives you the opportunity to let your creative imagination run wild, immerse yourself into a fantastical world (probably somewhere between the 18th and 19th century), and 'play'.
The staging itself for the collection, which we visit twice a year to buy the upcoming season, is a sensual, storytelling experience. At the back of a private courtyard, overgrown with trailing ivy, behind an inconspicuous building, the showroom is entered through a number of antique doorways and outdoor corridors, creating a sense of secrecy and exclusivity as you arrive. A polished brass sign, encrusted with the distinctive curls of the brands logo, signposts your arrival.
On entering, your senses are awarded with the most beautiful arrangement. Delicate Parisienne acoustic music softly fills the space, along with an oudy floral aroma which compliments the elaborate floral arrangements in weathered concrete vases atop antique wooden furniture. Rails of pretty colours and opulent textures are positioned around the outside of the space, broken up with vintage dress mannequins, wearing outfits showcasing the key prints and shapes of the collection. It's easy to get swept up in the beauty of it and get carried away as we begin selecting the pieces for the store.
For the SS25 collection, the theme progresses from the past seasons effortlessly with a repeat of pressed flower and tapestry prints, this time with the introduction of a storybook theme used on cottons, silks and even on handmade umbrellas. We also saw the use of 3D embellishments in the form of scattered dusty-coloured flowers sewn on dresses, skirts and sheer shirts which can easily be described as no less than wearable art.
The colour palette incorporates the usual rich tones favoured by the designer, of reds and greens, with the addition of a soft, hazy vintage pink which I was immediately captivated by. I was only too eager to order a pinkish silk suit with pretty flower embellishments for a wedding I've been invited to next year. I loved it as if the designer had taken a tour around my dreams and made it especially for me. To say I was excited is an understatement. Between that suit and the refillable coupe of Champagne in my hand, I was practically giddy!
Of course I did get carried away, impossible not to presented with that lot, and I ordered a few extra shirts for myself, and matching for little Minna Mae. Yes - Aleksandr Manamis does childrenswear! Crazily expensive obviously, as the work involved hand making tiny things actually demands more time and precision than making the adults pieces. For this reason, we don't stock the childrens range, although we can take any special orders if you'd really like to spoil your favourite mini human! If you're anything like Grandma Valerie and I, you won't be able to help yourself.
TAKEN FROM OUR RECENT ALEKSANDR MANAMIS PHOTOSHOOT WITH MINNA-MAE, DRESSED IN THE AW24 COLLECTION.
Matching my outfits with Minna's tiny size versions has become my absolute dream dressing. I already love the way beautiful clothes make me feel, but to add a sentimental thread to the mix just increases the joy ten fold, and people seem to love it! When we go out in our matching 'birds' shirt (Minna calls this the 'Duckie' shirt - true Stokie girl!) so many people compliment us! The smile is plastered across my face as proud as punch, only mirrored in the same doting expression on my mums face. It's such a privilege. It is a blessing to have a daughter.
Whilst clearly I am an avid disciple of the brand, I am famously a lazy dresser and since becoming a mother, am less keen to stand out, preferring a toned down version of my previously eccentric self. I think the majority of the ladies we buy for feel similarly. We want to feel great, stand out for our appreciation of beautiful, individual clothes, but not end up looking like an extra in a remake of one of Bronte's classics. So for me, its about mixing it up, making Manamis wearable for the every day. I think if you can justify one item, which you really love, it can easily be worked into your current wardrobe. My 'duckie' shirt looks the best toned down with a pair of old Levi's white jeans which I picked up for about £30 in an outlet sale. A piece like that, so outrageous in its design, needs to be given centre stage so paired with a simple Annette Gortz trouser like 'KAP' (I lived in mine in Paris!) adds a tidy but still stylish finish.
PICTURED AT THE 'NAGS HEAD AT HAUGHTON' ON A SUNDAY.
Obviously the price of the collection is less like 'the elephant in the room', more like 'immediately hits you in the face and needs addressing' so I'm not suggesting everybody is to go straight to the collection and make an impulsive £900 buy. But I do think, that when the time is right, and you're looking for something very special, it's well worth consideration.
Perhaps for a one off occasion, when the budget expands a little for something truly special, it would be worth investing in one key piece, which can be styled afterwards in lots of different ways to create multiple, wearable looks. I know my 'duckie' shirt will be coming out for many Sunday lunches to come, as its the perfect fit for those smart/casual occasions when you want style and comfort. (And the ability to spill gravy and wash it easily after chasing Minna around the restaurant and beer garden- we need practical after all!)
I think for me, Aleksandr Manamis cuts right to the core of why we buy luxury clothing. And its simple. We buy into a story or a lifestyle ideal which takes us on a nostalgic journey of sorts. I write this on a laptop surrounded by apple gadgets and cables, but if I were in my Manamis I'd visualise myself writing with a quill and a pot of ink, on a high backed chair at a desk, probably out somewhere 'on the wiley windy moors.' It's the joy we get with the feeling of 'magic' the brand creates with every stitch, in every detail. We try and emulate that life, and add that magic into not only our wardrobe, but into our own identity. And that, I believe, makes it worth every penny.
THE EDITORIAL x ALEKSANDR MANAMIS
BEHIND THE SCENES
