Neutrals are warming up for this season, and we can’t get enough! For AW25, the trending colour is espresso brown in all its tonal variations - shades that feel both refined yet quietly dramatic. We’re introducing this edit through RUNDHOLZ, MAMA B and SORT AARHUS, three ladies designerwear labels who each translate brown into their own language of texture, silhouette and detail. Whether your look leans sculptural, softly layered or pared back with structure, these espresso tones bring everything together.

Turf by RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE

RUNDHOLZ has always thrived on subverting expectations, and AW25 is no exception. In Turf, a saturated espresso tone, the brand finds a way to make brown feel both elemental and forward-looking. Each piece captures the RUNDHOLZ balance of unconventional form with functionality, offering sculptural shapes that carry easily into everyday styling.

The RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE Pullover in 100% silk is a prime example. The oversized cut is softened by dropped shoulders and extra-long sleeves, while exposed seams and an asymmetric hem give it an edge that feels almost architectural. Silk adds a surprising tactility, turning what could be a casual knit into something elevated and sensory. We love it layered loosely over slim trousers or tucked just slightly at the waist for definition.

Outerwear takes on structure in the RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE Coat, crafted from a wool blend that holds its contouring shape. Ruched seams sculpt the body, creating movement where you’d expect rigidity, and the tailored collar and button fastening keep it grounded. This is the sort of coat that transforms simple underlayers into a directional look, whether paired with Turf-toned trousers or lightened with Bone for contrast.

Texture is central to RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE this season, nowhere more so than in the Raccoon-wool pieces. The Pullover, finished with distressed edges, feels raw yet luxurious. It’s oversized and boxy, yet the high neckline gives it a precision that balances the relaxed shape. The RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE Cardigan, with its generous hood and button fastening, offers the same mix of refinement and rebellion. These are pieces to wear with nonchalance: sleeves pushed up, hems loose, perhaps anchored with sculptural leather trousers for contrast.

Accessories also play their part. The RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE Racoon Scarf and Modal-wool Printed Scarf bring softness and layering options, wrapping effortlessly over the shoulders of heavier pieces. They’re designed less to complete an outfit and more to extend it, adding fluidity and texture.

For more casual days, the RUNDHOLZ MAINLINE Jacket in a sweatshirt-style cotton introduces sculptural detail through toggle fastenings and a hooded neckline. With its oversized silhouette and ribbed trims, it straddles outerwear and lounge, easily styled with the matching jogger-style trousers. Balloon-shaped with cuffed hems, these trousers capture the brand’s sculptural ethos in a piece that still feels wearable for every day of the week.

Looking for pieces to compliment Turf? We love the RUNDHOLZ DIP drop-crotch cotton canvas trouser, printed with pixelated graphics and nostalgic postmarks, adding narrative to form. Worn with turn-ups, they carry a sense of irreverence that pairs well with simple tops. Then there’s the RUNDHOLZ DIP lamb leather drop-crotch trouser in Flamingo: saturated, sculptural and unapologetically bold. The folds and oversized pockets give it presence, yet the lamb leather softens the severity, allowing movement and longevity.

Turf, then, is not simply a colour. Within RUNDHOLZ, it becomes a grounding force that ties together silk, wool, cotton and leather. Each texture brings something new to Espresso, making it an endlessly versatile hue for AW25.

Moro by MAMA B

If RUNDHOLZ uses espresso brown as sculpture, MAMA B uses it as softness. Moro, the house’s rich espresso hue, translates into fleece, cotton and velvet with an ease that feels lived-in yet polished. It’s layering at its most wearable, the kind of ladies designerwear that moves seamlessly between work, weekends and everything in between.

The MAMA B Spino Pullover, oversized in fleece with an asymmetric hemline, sets the tone. Cosy yet directional, it has enough volume to wear over slim-cut trousers, or it can be balanced with MAMA B’s own wide-leg silhouettes. In contrast, the Emotiva Pullover brings a lighter touch, with its cotton mix and dropped hemline and shoulders. It’s the everyday knit you’ll reach for again and again, made interesting with subtle proportion play.

Velvet brings depth through the Cimone PR Jacket, patterned in tie-dye for a painterly effect. Tailored elements, such as the neat collar and button fastening, keep it classic, whilst the fabric and print give it character. Layer this over soft trousers and a neutral pullover for balance, or lean into the richness by pairing with Moro trousers.

And, whilst we’re on trousers, the Pollo design in cord cotton is a standout. Wide-legged yet structured by subtle pleats, they offer fluidity without losing shape. With their elasticated waist, they’re practical too, but their silhouette makes them inherently chic. Pair them with the cropped Moyet Pullover, which balances proportion with its high neckline and asymmetric hem, or with the classic Kira Pullover in its striped update, cropped and swingy for AW25.

Outerwear also finds its voice in Moro. The Sibilla Coat, long and relaxed in tie-dye, fuses tailored elements with artistic expression. Meanwhile, the Crema Cardigan, boxy with asymmetric hem and fleece construction, is more casual but no less considered. The beauty of MAMA B is how each piece can be worn interchangeably, forming layered looks that feel intuitive and comfortable.

Accessories carry the same spirit. The Segovia Scarf and Kaki Hat, both fleece, are understated but effective at grounding brighter pieces or softening sharper silhouettes.

Moro, then, is less about making a statement and more about creating an atmosphere. In MAMA B’s hands, it’s a tonal base that welcomes dusty pinks, creams and lighter browns. It’s the espresso shade reimagined for fluid layering, blending warmth with wearability.

Chocolate by SORT AARHUS

Where RUNDHOLZ sculpts and MAMA B softens, SORT AARHUS brings espresso tones into structure. Chocolate here is anchored by footwear and knitwear, the pieces that finish a look and lend it strength.

The boots are central. The calf-high stretch leather boot in Gasoline Chocolate is refined but practical, with a platform rubber sole that adds edge without heaviness. The back zip keeps the line clean, while the rounded toe ensures balance. This is a boot that can work with trousers tucked in or skirts layered over, versatile enough to shift from day to night.

The mid-calf lace-up boot in textured leather is slightly more rugged, with its full-length side zip and platform sole. It’s a style that pairs beautifully with softer layers, offsetting feminine silhouettes with structure. Meanwhile, the calf-high boot with toe-cap detail offers polish, its stretch leather and rounded toe striking the perfect midpoint between classic and contemporary.

Chocolate also makes its mark through knitwear. The SORT AARHUS Oversized Pullover, in virgin wool, is asymmetrical and slightly A-line, adding drama without overwhelming. Ribbed seams and high neckline finish it with refinement, making it easy to wear with cropped trousers or layered over dresses. The SORT AARHUS Cropped Trouser, also virgin wool, balances the look with a wide leg and ribbed hemline, their cropped cut perfect for showing off the boots. Together, they create a tonal set that epitomises AW25 minimalism with depth.

Chocolate in SORT AARHUS is about grounding. It anchors colour and structure, making it the espresso brown that completes a wardrobe.

Shop the Collections

Espresso brown is the universal neutral of AW25, layered and sculptural in RUNDHOLZ, soft and versatile in MAMA B, and structured in SORT AARHUS. Together, they form a palette that feels timeless yet new, versatile yet distinctive. At House Of Valerie, we see these pieces not as seasonal novelties but as the backbone of ladies designerwear for now and seasons to come.

Explore the full collection in our Nantwich store or online, and discover how Turf, Moro and Chocolate can transform the way you dress this season.